Ama Dablam Expedition Dispatch

October 25, 2015 – Celebrating the Explorers before Us

Another great day on the trail as we move closer to Ama Dablam. We left Khumjung in the sun, dropped down to the Dhud Khosi River, had tea at Phunki Thanga, and then started the long, long climb up to Tangboche Monastery. The climb keeps going on and on, but the peaks of Tomserku and Kantegra tower above and seem to push you along. Tangboche sits at 12,900 feet on the edge of a ridge and is arguably one of the finest pieces of real estate in the world. Ama Dablam frames up the valley, and beyond lay the Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse trilogy. Tangboche monastery houses about thirty monks and is the spiritual hub of the region. Unfortunately, we were unable to access the monastery because all the monks are busy preparing for Mani Rimdu, the largest festival of the year. We had lunch outside at a tea house with the resident crows out in force providing a lovely soundtrack.

The team went out to the memorials on the ridge, strung up prayer flags, and had a beer with the boys. Here sit the chortans for Jake Breitenbach, Barry Bishop, Lute Jerstadt, and Gil Roberts, all members’ of the first American team on Everest. The view was spectacular, and as always, it is a bitter sweet moment for me. It’s also a time to reflect on the 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition and their legacy.

52 years ago, this expedition was undertaken with a mixture of excitement, adventure, and optimism. When we look backwards we have the benefit of seeing the risk of exploration and the light of its results.

The tangible results of AMEE are quite clear – six members on the summit, a new route on the mountain, and a massive body of scientific research produced. Less tangible is the tremendous influence these climbers and their expedition had on subsequent generations to follow. Virtually every climber that ventured fourth into the mountains in the generations following the 1963 climb read either Hornbein’s “The West Ridge,” or Ullman’s official account of the climb, “Americans on Everest,” if not both. These books influenced countless climbers on many levels. Most importantly, this team set the benchmark of what was possible for American climbers in the Himalayas.

After reading these accounts, one comes away with the belief that anything can be accomplished; and one comes away inspired to accept the mantle of their legacy and follow in their footsteps. The world of the known expands only when we place our faith and support in those brave enough to take giant steps. We would be nowhere, essentially, without the bravery of our explorers, and that’s why we celebrate this team. In essence, any American climbing in the Himalayas is climbing in the footsteps of giants. These giants were all the members of the 1963 American Mount Everest Expedition.

And once again it is a privilege to be in the Khumbu and carrying on the American Legacy established over 50 years ago. We dropped down through a beautiful rhododendron forest and to Deboche and made a quick visit to the old Nunnery. Unfortunately, the earthquake left the building in ruins, but it looks as though the rebuilding process is well under way. An hour or so later, we were at Pemba’s lodge in Pangboche. Sherpa Highland lodge has arguably the best views in the valley and could not be a better place to spend the night and use as a base for the climbs of Lobuche and Ama Dablam. Yanzing, Temba’s wife, made us a lovely traditional meal of dal baht (rice and lentils) with a chicken curry and fresh vegetables out of their greenhouse. It feels good to be pampered because the real work is about to start for Lobuche and AD. Tomorrow we will visit Lama Geshi to bless the team in the morning and then it’s up the valley to the village of Pheriche.