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Bolivia Expedition Dispatch

August 25, 2015 – A Recap of Cabeza de Condor Summit Day

Hi! Good morning. This is Osvaldo calling from the Condoriri Base Camp. Today is Tuesday the 25th and we are packing everything to go back to La Paz.

Yesterday on Monday the 24th it was a very good climb. We climbed the “Head of the Condor”. It was a very good day with good weather.

We started at about 2:30 in the morning and we arrived at the top at about 12. It was some tough conditions with a lot of snow on the way up and the ridge was quite exposed. Even with that, we made it! We made it with really good time.

By the way, yesterday was Paul’s birthday and I think it was a very good gift for him and everybody was happy about that.

Today I am going to send some pictures of the Head of the Condor.

Bye, bye!

Later today…

August 25th, this is Paul Kitney leaving a message for our days at Condoriri Base camp and the climbs we have done here.

So to sum up we climbed Pico Austria, Pequeno Alpamayo and also Cabeza de Condor.

I’ll talk a little bit about Cabeza de Condor which is the “Head of the Condor”, the most outstanding peak and probably the most challenging of the main peaks here in the Condoriri Valley.

We started on August 24th around 2 AM. It was a combination of a long glacier travel ranging between moderate and more challenging steepness. Then as we got to the actual Head of the Condor, which took about 4 hours before we actually completed that approach, it’s a combination of one narrow gulley mixed climb of snow and ice which was fun. Then we got on a quite exposed ridge and got to some rock scrambling and some decent ice climbing with some spectacular views around the region.

We had a little bit of weather coming in with a electrical storm, but we managed to escape that.

It was a great day out and a great few days here at Condoriri.

Have a great day! Bye.

Audio of Paul's call Listen to Paul's call

Llamas on the way to Cabeza de Condor

Llamas on the way to Cabeza de Condor

Paul near Base Camp, looking ready to go Base Camp

Left: Paul near Base Camp, looking ready to go; Right: Base Camp

Nutrition for the climb

Nutrition for the climb

Approaching Cabeza de Condor

Approaching Cabeza de Condor

We got into more snow as we climbed higher.

We got into more snow as we climbed higher.

Practice day on the glacier

Practice day on the glacier

Working on anchors on practice day

Working on anchors on practice day

Moving up the glacier

Moving up the glacier

Ice climbing practice

Ice climbing practice

Maria climbing high on the technical terrain

Maria climbing high on the technical terrain

Paul looking relaxed while alpine climbing

Paul looking relaxed while alpine climbing

Adventure couple takes a break. Maria off the snow and headed back to lower ground.

Left: Adventure couple takes a break.; Right: Maria off the snow and headed back to lower ground.

Congratulations to a great pair

Congratulations to a great pair

Paul and Maria with Cabaza de Condor behind

Paul and Maria with Cabaza de Condor behind

A holiday in one of the most spectacular regions of the Andes

A holiday in one of the most spectacular regions of the Andes

With the Berg Adventures Team

With the Berg Adventures Team

Quite an accomplishment to ponder

Quite an accomplishment to ponder

Maria in the Andes! Climbing up a couloir

Left: Maria in the Andes!; Right: Climbing up a couloir

Maria taking a break in the snow

Maria taking a break in the snow

A mixed climbing section

A mixed climbing section

Approaching the peak Almost to the summit

Left: Approaching the peak; Right: Almost to the summit