Elbrus Expedition Dispatch

July 8, 2011 – A Thunderous Night Under the Stars

The thunderstorms rolled through the Caucasus Mountains again last night at about 2 am. I first noticed the bright flashes of light and then the thunder. We were sleeping out in our tents last night at 10,827ft/3,300m this time. It was almost cozy and comfortable to hear the violent thunderstorms and to feel the light drops of rain on our tents. It was actually dry by morning and it was clear overhead. Experiencing such a strong storm, while being surrounded by the power and grandeur of these mountains, was spectacular. Now I’m down with the thick forests all around me. We’ve come back to lower elevations. We rode the chairlifts back down this morning and we are back in our routine down here in the valley.

Paul found a grocery store down the road from where we stay that sells several kinds of beer that we enjoy. We always pick out the cold ones first. Stella Artois, Tuborg, Heineken and the Russian beer, Baltika, are probably our favorites. There is a deck out behind the second floor of our lodge and we have enjoyed spending time happy hours in the afternoon there telling stories and enjoying the beauty of the Caucasus all around.

Today, Chris told Vladimir that she wanted a sauna and so we arranged for one in advance by telephone before we came off the mountain today. She left mid-afternoon for the sauna down the street from our hotel and returned a while later looking completely relaxed, with a beat red face and a big smile. She said, “Wow, Russian saunas are really hot.” When she was done they served her, as they always do in this part of Russia, a dark red berry tea. It seems strange to drink a hot drink after being in a steamy, hot sauna. Though she was reluctant, she gave it a try and said it was really quite good.

We just finished dinner and we had hichin, which has been a favorite of mine for years. This is a flatbread filled with a feta-like cheese, dill and other seasonings and it is really delicious. It was a big hit at the dinner table tonight.

We are going to be up early and we will keep you updated with how the next stage of our trip goes.