Berg Adventures 2013 Everest Expedition Dispatch

May 24, 2013 – Daniel Reflects on His Experience

On the night of the 16th we set out for the summit from Camp IV, or the south col. I had been feeling very good during the last rotation until we got above Camp III, and things started to shut down. I began moving slower and slower and took longer than expected just to get to the final camp. The boost that others got from climbing on oxygen didn't seem to make it to my legs. I was running without a lot of reserve, and I knew it.

The night we arrived at Camp IV we were supposed to set out for the summit within hours. The winds were too strong, and we aborted the attempt until the following night. I spent the next 24 hours in the tent with Todd and Steve, trying to use some oxygen to avoid deteriorating but not so much that it would deplete our supplies. They call it the death zone, and that is probably being too kind. The winds were brutal the entire time, as is the norm on the South Col. Our tent collapsed down repeatedly but we were so exhausted we managed to sleep.

We set out around 7pm for the summit. I had hoped for a near miraculous recovery over the last 24 hours that would allow me to move further upward through the night and into the next day. It was not to be. I keep pushing but my pace was slowing. The weather seemed to deteriorate, and we were coated in ice like the glaze on a doughnut. My feet began to get cold because I was not moving fast enough - not just the toes, the entire foot.

It was clear to me on this day I did not have the strength to get up and down safely under my own power. I had an idea of what kind of risks I was willing to accept. These calculations had been made at sea level long ago, without hypoxia, and without the emotion of being in such a dangerous place. The balance had shifted, I knew what had to be done. I told Saring (my Sherpa that night) we were turning around. He said no, you can still walk. I said yes, that is the point.

I got down to Camp and slept on oxygen. It is perhaps the loneliest place in the world, by yourself, when your friends are on their way to the top. I wanted to be there with them after all we had already been through together. I wanted to be there for me, after all the sacrifice it had taken to get to this point. But one of the things that draws me to mountains is their uncompromising beauty. The mountain does not care what you want. It's ideals are inviolate. If you don't have the strength, that's it. You can die, or be rescued, or turn around, but you can't touch the top and do it with dignity if it isn't your day. It wasn't my day. And neither the mountain or I were compromised from this encounter.

I got down to base camp over the next 2 days, followed by Todd and Steve. Both had made an incredible climb under bad conditions. Unless you have been there, you have no idea what they had achieved. I am proud of them.

We walked down to Lukla over the next 3 days and are now waiting on clear weather to fly out of the Khumbu back to Kathmandu. There has been time for reflection, but it will take a long time to put the experiences of this trip into perspective.

I would like to end with thanks and acknowledgement. Wally Berg organized and led a top-notch expedition. I would recommend him without reservation to anyone thinking of taking a trek or climb. Wally has been operating here for 30 years, and his knowledge and safety record are unrivaled. We basically climbed the mountain by ourselves, moving in our small group free of the traffic that takes away so much of the experience from the larger groups. Wally keeps the group size low and the quality high, using the best Sherpas and cooks that can be found. It has been an honor to climb under his leadership, and it is an honor to consider him my friend.

I would like to thank my family, friends, and most of all Cassidy for all the love and support while I have been away. It would not be possible to be here and be at peace without all of you, out there, sending love and hope the entire time I have been gone. I will be home soon, thank you for following along.

All the best to you all,

– Daniel Branham