Everest Base Camp Trek Dispatch

May 15, 2008 – A Very Special Day

I’m calling today on our satellite telephone from just outside of a comfortable lodge in the little settlement of Lobuche. We’re at 16,000 feet above sea level, right at the edge of a lateral moraine on the Khumbu Glacier. The Berg Adventures team has done really well getting here. Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp are not far away, but we will continue to make our approach slowly in order to acclimate to the altitude and take in everything we’re seeing.

Today was very special as we climbed from the village of Pheriche at 14,000 feet up onto the moraine. We reached the top at a place where chortens have been built—stones piled up to make memorials for those who lost their lives in the mountains nearby. Many of the chortens honor Sherpas. There are also memorials for several of our dear friends including Scott Fisher, who died on Everest in 1996, and Alex Lowe, who perished on Shishapangma in 1999. It is always a moving experience to come through this area. Clouds and mist always seem to be here as I go by.

Our time among the chortens was especially meaningful as the Sherpas helped Dennis build a memorial for his brother Steve. In June of last year we had been with a very joyful Dennis when he had called Steve from the summit of Kilimanjaro and sent him greetings from the top of Africa. Only two weeks later we lost Steve. Now there is an appropriate memorial for him in a beautiful place in the Himalayas.

After finishing work on the memorial, Dennis sat peacefully beside it for awhile, satisfied in this way that his brother will be honored. As Dennis joined us to continue our journey toward Lobuche, we knew that we would all cherish the memory of this moment.

We hope that everyone has enjoyed the photos we have been posting. I’ll send some pictures of this very special day, and future shots when we begin ascending along the Khumbu Glacier towards Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp.

– Wally