Climb Mt. Robson with Berg Adventures International – Trip Description

Monarch of the Canadian Rockies

Mount Robson is not only the biggest but also the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies. Robson is a climber's peak. The base of the mountain is at 2957 ft. (985m) and the top is 12,969 ft. (3954m). This is not a climb for beginners. Your technique, as well as physical and mental endurance must be honed. Nowhere on the "Monarch of the Canadian Rockies" as Robson is called, is there an easy route. Our ascents of Robson attempt the Kain Face, a classic Grade IV alpine ice climb with slope angles up to 55 Degrees. This big climb, unquestionably one of the classic mountaineering routes in North America, attracts accomplished climbers from around the world.

The Kain Face was first climbed by Conrad Kain in 1913. The route is considered to be one of the supreme mountaineering achievements of its time. The ascent reportedly required that Kain chop 6000 steps in the alpine ice of the mountain face that would later bear his name. Equipment and technique had changed when Fred Becky made an ascent of the route in 1965. Becky and his party had crampons! A few years later young Colorado climbers Bill Roos and Paul Sibley climbed the route with their new curved pick ice axes. Bill and Paul recall that at the time they were considered to be young punks who "cheated" with their new-fangled equipment.

Today the Kain face is a challenging test for alpinists using modern equipment and technique. If you want to try your skills, perseverance and luck on a big, serious mountain that creates its own weather this will be a rewarding objective. Our Robson Expeditions are planned around using helicopter transport to and from Upper Robson Glacier which improves our chance of success.

The guide ratio for this trip is 2 participants per guide.

Expedition Strategy

Our itinerary will remain flexible to give us the best chance to reach the summit. We will move fast and decisively when the weather is good. We will be prepared to hang out if weather is bad. Robson is a mountain that demands patience, good judgment and an aggressive, confident attitude when the time is right.

Requirements

Intermediate glacier travel skills, competent alpine ice climbing techniques on slopes to 55 degrees and experience climbing on mixed terrain with heavy packs.

We highly recommend the Alpine mountaineering course with ascent of Mt. Sir Sandford as a good preparation for this climb.