
Expedition Gear Series
Avoid the Frosty Toes
By Tracy Jacobson
About to go for your first mountaineering trip and need to know why it is important to purchase double verses single boots?! This is one of the single most important gear investments you’ll make on an expedition.
Mountaineering boots are designed to protect your feet and toes on all types of objectives and specially outfitted with a toe and heal welt (melted into the boot) for crampons to snap on. The stiffer the boot the better the precision use of the crampon on more difficult and steeper terrain.


Left: Steve Whittington - Berg Adventures 2013 Everest Expedition; Right: Kit Deslauriers - Berg Adventures 2006 Everest Expedition (photo courtesy of Jimmy Chin)
Single Boots
- Light weight and waterproof
- Good for mixed and ice climbing
- Have toe and heel welts for crampons
- Insulated for warm to cold conditions. *Not for extreme cold or high altitude
- Insulation that is built into the boot. *It is not removable, so not ideal for multi-day expeditions
Double Boots
- More volume = more WARMTH. Built for high altitude climbing and has a non-insulated shell with removable insulated liner. This offers long term protection from cold conditions and helps prevent frostbite in extreme cold at higher altitudes.
- The removable liners can be dried when wet or kept warm in the bottom of your sleeping bag for the early morning climb.
- The liner can be used as a camping or hut bootie.
- The leather or plastic outer layer also offers protection for the laces.
- Heel and toe welts for crampons
- The stiff outer layer offers the precision needed for steep terrain.
- UV Resistant and waterproof
- A no-brainer if you want to protect all ten toes and be as comfortable as possible on your climb!
Double Boots Recommendations:
- La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo - thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter
- La Sportiva Baruntse
- Koflach Arctis Expe
- Scarpa Phantom Ultra new 2010 model




