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Archive for May, 2013

Wally Berg Reflects at Base Camp

Wednesday, May 22nd, 2013

Some things about climbing Everest change; some do not. Fifty years ago, the American Mount Everest Expedition met a Reuters correspondent named Elizabeth Hawley in Kathmandu. Throughout their expedition Miss Hawley tracked the news that the team sent out via shortwave radio – the messages were often sent in code and relayed by ham radio operators to a Father Moran who was monitoring on his HF radio in K’du.

By the time I got to Nepal to climb in the 1980’s Liz Hawley was already a legend. I was honored and somewhat awed the first time that I met her. Soon I was among those climbers who knew that every time I arrived at my hotel in Kathmandu for a new expedition the phone would ring – often as I was still checking in. Miss Hawley would want to know when we could meet so that she could gather information about team members and our objective. We quickly learned that Elizabeth Hawley just wanted the facts. Those of us who learned to set our egos aside for our Liz Hawley interviews, and get the spelling of team members’ names straight, became very fond of Liz and I can say that her consistent presence in Katmandu over the years since I first met her has meant much to me. I always look forward to those calls.

Steve Whittington, Daniel Branham, Elizabeth Hawley and Billi Bierling at the Yak and Yeti Hotel, Kathmandu, March 2013

Steve Whittington, Daniel Branham, Elizabeth Hawley and Billi Bierling at the Yak and Yeti Hotel, Kathmandu, March 2013

I am happy to report that Liz keeps up with the times. Within in 24 hours of Berg Adventures climbers reaching the summit on May 17, my Nepalese NCELL mobile phone rang at Base Camp. Miss Hawley was on the line to say, “Congratulations and when will you be in Kathmandu and when can we meet?” Don’t worry, Liz. We will make sure that you can find us. Wouldn’t miss it for the world.

How We Get Things Delivered to Us at Everest Base Camp

Monday, May 13th, 2013

A team that has moved into Everest Base Camp for 6 – 8 weeks needs a constant supply of goods. We burn fuel, eat food and use up supplies. We also generate rubbish and solid human waste – all of which is removed from Base Camp under the supervision of the S.P.C.C. – the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Commission. In the Everest Region, no roads – just foot paths. So with no wheeled transport, we rely upon other forms of transportation to get our goods.

PORTERS

Porters are an important part of our supply chain and waste removal system. In the old days we had “Sherpa Mail Runners” who carried letters and dispatch messages by foot to and from Base Camp. These days we tend to rely more on the internet to communicate, but it is still possible to get items delivered from Kathmandu by Sherpa Runner in less than three days. The items are flown from Kathmandu to Lukla where they are picked up by a “runner” and carried to us.

One of our porters arrives at camp

One of our porters arrives at camp

A runner with goods

A runner with goods

YAKS

Instead of using runners, we use yaks when possible. Yaks are constantly moving in and out of Base Camp. Long an important member of the Berg Adventures team in Nepal is Nim Phuti who has been delivering supplies to us at Base Camp for well over a decade. Often when we trek in Nepal, Nim Phuti accompanies us with her yaks. If you have ever been on a Berg Adventures trip in Nepal, you will most certainly recall Nim Phuti and her beautiful smile. She is an important member of our Everest Expeditions and she plays a very significant role in allowing us to maintain our high level of comfort at camp.

A Yak load arrives

A Yak load arrives

Nim Phuti joins us at camp

Nim Phuti joins us at camp

Some of the yaks arriving at Base Camp wear earrings!!

Some of the yaks arriving at Base Camp wear earrings!!

HELICOPTERS

We have helicopters at Base Camp every day – even on our bad weather days. They are flying for all kinds of reasons, but it is not impossible to get a much needed item of communications equipment or medical supplies on one of the flights. We have two separate landing zones at Base Camp now, one in the lower sections of Base Camp and one high, right next to the icefall.

A helicopter flies in to camp

A helicopter flies in to camp

Unloading the helicopter

Unloading the helicopter

An Interview with David Mushi – Berg Adventures Safari Guide

Wednesday, May 8th, 2013

Safari season is upon us and to get excited about it, we chatted with Berg Adventures safari guide, David Mushi. Find out more about Berg Adventures safaris here. It isn’t too late to start planning your 2013 safari adventure!

Berg Adventures safari truck leaving Tarangire National Park

Berg Adventures safari truck leaving Tarangire National Park

Where are you from?

I am Tanzanian and I grew-up near Kilimanjaro in the village called Machame.

Why did you decide to become a safari guide?

I decided to become a safari guide because I love a wildlife.

Safari Guide David, right

Safari Guide David, right

What kind of training did you do to become a safari guide?

To become a safari guide, you need to attend a wildlife college. There you will learn about both the fauna and flora.

How long have you been a safari guide?

I have experience as a safari guide for about 15 years and I have been working with Berg Adventures for about 8 years.

What is your favorite animal?

The animal called the Serval Cat is my favorite.

A serval cat, David’s favorite animal on the savannah (Photo credit: Picasa Web Albums)

A serval cat, David’s favorite animal on the savannah (Photo credit: Picasa Web Albums)

Do you ever get tired of going on safari?

I never get tired of watching the animals, because every time you get go on safari it is different and you get excited.

What is your favorite place to visit while on safari?

Serengeti National Park is my favorite place to go with my clients.

Lions playing in the Serengeti

Lions playing in the Serengeti

Are these hippos kissing or fighting?

Are these hippos kissing or fighting?

What is the most memorable thing that has happened to you on safari?

Once there were two male elephants chasing my car and I had clients with me. They chased us towards the river for about 3 kilometers and when we were close to the river, they sped up to catch us. We were very lucky; we found a little path, and I drove the car down to the river safely. I will never forget that.

Why should everyone who climbs Kilimanjaro also go on safari?

Killimanjaro climbers should also go on safari while in Tanzania because the Serengeti and Ngorongoro are commonly called the best wildlife areas in Africa.

Have you ever climbed Kilimanjaro?

I climbed Kilimanjaro when I was in school and I used to be a porter.

What is a Tanzanian food every visitor should try?

Ugali.

Ugali, a classic East African dish made of maize flour (Photo credit: Mark Skipper)

Ugali, a classic East African dish made of maize flour (Photo credit: Mark Skipper)

What do you do during the off season when there are not many safaris?

During the off-season, I stay home with my family and I attend awildlife course for about two weeks.

Things to Do at Everest Base Camp

Tuesday, May 7th, 2013

Everest Base Camp is not just a place to put up a tent; it is a seasonal city that appears for at least two months every year. Each expedition team makes up its own self-contained neighborhood complete with everything the members need to recover from a climbing rotation. It is a busy and exciting place with a surprising number of amenities and activities to offer. Wally Berg sent us a list of all the things that the 2013 Everest Expedition Team does to keep busy at Base Camp! Read the full article.

Start planning your own trip to Everest Base Camp. Learn more here.

Featured Trip: Ojos del Salado, Chile

Wednesday, May 1st, 2013

“We started out with four-wheel drive vehicles and drove across the barren, open expanse of the high desert here. This is amazing terrain. It’s really hard to remember how high you are because the temperatures are remarkably warm. We have slightly glaciated and snow covered peaks above us, but we walk around in shorts a lot.” –Wally Berg, 2007 Ojos Dispatch

Ojos del Salado from afar

Ojos del Salado from afar

It’s been a few years since we’ve climbed Ojos del Salado and we’re itching to go back. Return with us to the remote reaches of the Atacama Desert for an adventure like no other. The landscape here is incredibly vast. Red sandy peaks and expansive saltas (salt flats) appear as though they belong on the surface of Mars not on Earth. If it weren’t for the beautiful emerald-colored lakes and flocks of flamingos, the photographs of the region might pass as those taken by the Mars Rover.

Climbing on the lunar landscape

Climbing on the lunar landscape

There are no paved roads to Ojos, so we explore by 4×4 vehicle to acclimatize and to reach many of our campsites. Rather than spending our time hiking from camp to camp, we get to drive to our camps giving us more time to explore the lakes, hot springs and peaks that surround us.

Camping on the shores of a salty lake

Camping on the shores of a salty lake

Hiking along Laguna Verde

Hiking along Laguna Verde

Relaxing in the natural hot springs after a day of hiking

Relaxing in the natural hot springs after a day of hiking

The high plateau of the Atacama can be deceptively warm and sunny, but the thin air will remind you with each breath that you are indeed at altitude. As the second highest mountain outside of the Himalayas (and also the second highest mountain in South America), Ojos del Salado is a physical challenge that will test the body’s ability to acclimatize. We increase our altitude slowly and follow the philosophy of “Climb high, sleep low,” which will give our bodies the best opportunities to adjust to the altitude.

Knock off the two highest summits in South America by adding Aconcagua to your adventure itinerary. Since your body will be acclimatized following your Ojos expedition, you will be ready to climb Aconcagua at a much faster pace than our normal Aconcagua expedition team. For details on an Aconcagua extension, contact our office.

Sign-up today for your high-altitude Chilean adventure – Ojos del Salado!

Thoughts about Camp II Quarrel

Wednesday, May 1st, 2013
The majestic beauty of the “Valley of Silence” from Camp III

The majestic beauty of the “Valley of Silence” from Camp III

If you have been following the international news this week, you may have seen a story about an altercation at Camp II on Everest. Wally has posted his response to this incident as a part of today’s dispatch. We have also posted a well-written report from Garrett Madison who spoke to many people involved in order to shed light on what really took place.